After the long process of finding my AirBnb condo, it was finally my first night to venture out into the city and find the best Japanese ramen noodles that Sapporo has to offer. The city is famous for miso-flavored ramen, which is made by taking delicious chicken and pork based broth and stir-frying it along with miso paste, bean sprouts, and cabbage. Since it’s creation here in Sapporo in the 1980s, this style has swept Japan as one of the most popular.
Sapporo Ramen Yokocho (Ramen Alley) about 10 ramen shops along one tiny alley
Weirdly enough, Sapporo’s most bustling part of town ‘Susukino’ is also it’s red light district. That being said, there is a lot more around the area than just hostess bars and strip clubs. In Susukino you’ll find many restaurants, stores, bars, as well as plenty of sightseeing and people watching. Taking hints from my idol Anthony Bourdain, I set out to this part of town in search of what the locals refer to as ‘Sapporo Ramen Yokocho’. In Japanese, this means ‘Sapporo Ramen Alley’, which is exactly what it sounds like: about ten or so ramen shops crammed into a single alley only wide enough to fit one person comfortably. As I approached the alley, the brightly lit signs and decorative flags signaled that I was in the right place. With a delighted curiosity, I took in the aromas from each shop. Some smelled unique, while others smelled like the traditional Japanese cuisine that I have become familiar with over the last few years. It wasn’t until I walked past the last spot along the alley that I detected the particularly delicious aroma of Aji no Karyu.
‘Aji no Karyu’
As I ducked my head under the ‘noren’ fabric I immediately noticed the entire room is filled with signatures. Immediately, the English font popped out at me ‘Magnificent! many, many thanks.’ signed by none other than ‘Anthony Bourdain and the No Reservations Crew’. At the moment, I knew I had made it somehow as a self-proclaimed foodie. It does seem a little kitsch to be excited to have eaten at the same place as a famous guy on TV, but he’s on TV because he likes good food and he chose this place… So it must be good right?!
Anthony Bourdain ‘Came to the here’
After securing myself a seat at the bar, I immediately ordered the basic miso-ramen and a Sapporo Classic (Sapporo’s region-exclusive brand of Sapporo). During this time, the couple next to me get their bowls of noodles, and that moment I immediately regretted my decision to play it on the safe side…
‘The soup that got away – 2015″ Miso Ramen with Chashu, Crab and Clam
I feel like every ramen pilgrimage has at-least one of these, what I jokingly call ‘the soup that got away‘. This miso ramen not only features a delicious piece of chashu roast pork and vegetables but also crab legs and clams, two hokkaido delicacies. I was certainly jealous of the gentleman who ordered it, but the ramen I got sure did not disappoint either.
The classic, Miso Ramen.
Miso ramen has a rich and salty taste, yet it is also subtly sweet, which is what I think adds to it’s overall ‘rich’ complex. The chicken and pork broths combined with the miso paste are full of depth yet not too salty, letting the miso paste carry that load of the work. The crinkly Chinese-style noodles sop up the broth well in what can only be described as a symphony of flavor. The toppings: chashu roast pork, nori (seaweed), negi leek, onions, cabbage, bean sprouts and bamboo shoots all mixed very well with the broth.
The ratio…
Next time you find yourself in Sapporo, I would definitelymake the time to take a trip to Susukino Alley for one night on the town. I swear you will wish you had a few more! Also, if you find yourself lucky enough to try Aji no Karyu and see an open table, heed my advice and take it. I read in fellow ramen-lover Brian MacDuckston’s blog that he was snubbed a dinner there as they shut down for a private party, and while I was there, partway through my meal the shop owners decided to shut down the shop for what they called a ‘Private Party’ but essentially a Chinese tour guide had persuaded them to shut the store down so that everyone in his tour group could all eat at the tiny restaurant. Even in Japan, it feels like the Chinese are taking over the world.
Sapporo’s Ramen Kings!
